MODE-The puffy sleeves, wide elastic, deep pockets. Leather, nylon or fabric, sometimes brilliant, sometimes khaki, even daring the orange lining. On the back in the disorder of American pilots, Dr. Dre, skinheads, from Kate Moss and of course Tom Cruise. Ever, it is really out of fashion, he has just been left in the cupboard. He works for a few seasons a comeback in mainstream brands for men and women.
The fashion week presenting the man collections of autumn-winter 2015 ended in Paris on Sunday 25th January. In Milan, London and therefore in Paris again this season, the bomber has carved a beautiful place among the car-coats, trench coats and other teddies.Micro and silver at Andrea Crews, in light Dries Van Nouten brilliant at Calvin Klein, collarless in Versace or flowery in Dolce & Gabbana.
As is often the way matter is the military to thank for the invention of this jacket. The army … and a good chill. In the cockpit of an airplane, the key is to stay warm while being able to fly without hindrance. To address these constraints, in 1920, the first models of “bomber” appear: wide leather jackets accommodated two flap pockets, a shirt collar, elastic cuffs and waist. It is called the A-1.
African-American pilots (in 1942 or 1943) with model A-2
However, these jackets to pilot bombers (hence their nickname bomber in English) are several disadvantages, according to Internetages. In particular, their permeability to cold. Constraints that pose a real problem when planes fly, they, ever higher. Leslie Irvin, an American airman, had the idea to use less leather and stuff the jacket of a compact and warm white wool . The bomber jacket was born. The army called B-3.
A very useful orange lining
The A-1 is finally quickly put aside in favor of jackets with a zipper, the A-2. These jackets will follow the military during the interwar period and the Second World War.
In the early 50s, engineers are working on a jacket model just as hot but less bulky than leather model. For cost reasons also, the leather is abandoned in favor of nylon. The brown leather is replaced with navy blue or green olive nylon. Then an orange lining is imagined. This innovation makes the reversible so that the pilot can report in case of distress . The MA-1 bomber called today, was born.
In the 70s, images of the Vietnam War and the Falklands on television and in newspapers contribute, despite the peace movements to make it popular. The official manufacturer of the US Air Force, Alpha Industries, decides to market the for the general public .
The MA-1 Alpha Industries
Fighter Planes skinheads
The bomber is now available to all. It will seduce well-identified groups, starting with some “Mods”. This group of Londoners, the “modernists” or “mods” are young adults defending the image of a modern youth who are trying to break away from the working class and the elite. All differs from the English-righteous society of the time, they listen to the “modern jazz” (from which they get their name), soul, R’n’B and Jamaican music. It is also by their look, the mods are distinguished.
The mods are dressed in Ben Sherman shirts, shirts Fred Perry, cigarette cut trousers (very tight) or hipsters (hipsters) and are crazy costumes. Clarks, Doc Martens, Bowling Shoes Brogues or feet. Mods also wear bombers. In the late 60s, some mods move away from the movement, they are radicalized. They call the skinheads because of their shaved heads. They are distinguished by their mods claimed belonging to the proletariat, by their firm opposition to the policy of Margaret Thatcher and violent behavior, especially in football stadiums. The bomber entered the dressing room of the young English, then in the following years of European and American skinheads and became crowned as the polo shoes and nuts, a key movement. This rebellious youth puts on his shoulders a symbol of virility, they are at war against the established order.
Undated photo of English skinheads (GettyStock)
In 1986, the release of Top Gun helps to reconnect with the origins of the dish, the heroes of the American. Tom Cruise wearing a G-2 model, slightly different from the MA-1 because of her fur collar. The film’s success is immense. After the skinheads, the big names in American hip-hop also show the famous jacket, like Nas and Dr. Dre. Today, rapper Kanye West is a follower of this jacket. Models with the image of his tour Yeesuswere even created. Other musical family, techno lovers adopt the bomber, as emphasized by Le Figaro. This will give ideas, in 2000, the young Belgian designer Raf Simons (now Dior’s artistic director) who imagines the “Pyramid Bomber”, a black nylon model inspired the punk movement and fans of the Gabba Youth Culture, a movement techno Belgian and Dutch hardcore .
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